Oregon
Literary
Review
Vol. 3, No. 1

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William Kittredge
GOING TO THE COAST
A Personal Essay


 

Oscar Kittredge, my father, was living in Bookings, on the southern coast of Oregon when I was trying to cook up a story to follow on a title I fancied, “One of the Seas is Called Pacific.”

 

Oscar was eighty, long divorced from my mother, Josephine, who lived in Eugene, enjoying concerts and traveling. And we’d liquidated the Warner Valley Livestock Company, which owned and managed our ranches. For a long stretch it looked like Oscar was near the frayed end of his lifetime rope, out of purposes.

 

Then he married again, and he and his second wife, Francis Reynolds, deserted the lava-rock distances of the Great Basin country in southeastern Oregon to finish their lives overlooking the Pacific. A yearning to live on a seacoast often comes over people who’ve spent enough decades in the dusty interior. 

 

A hundred years before, the tiny outpost of Shaniko, on sage plains out in north-central Oregon, was the most active wool-shipping center in the United States. Each April, the brickwork hotel in Shaniko was filled with wool brokers, and dozens of immigrant sheep shearers put up tents and got down to work. When the wool from the hundreds of thousands of sheep had been clipped and stuffed into burlap bags and was ready for shipping, frozen oysters arrived by fast rail freight from Seattle. The oysters were taken from bays and inlets on Puget Sound and sent in barrels filled with seawater and frozen hard as stone. Citizens took those barrels off the railroad cars, and ate those oysters one by one as the seawater melted and they enjoyed the reeking salt odor and primal taste of oceanic tides and shallows while encountering slippery ripe rawness. Who could blame them?

 

Francis and Oscar bought a fishing boat to handle the ocean and caught salmon after salmon. They had those great fish canned and gave the cans away to visitors. Over coffee in the early morning they shook dice and played Yatzee. In the evening they poured Scotch and bourbon ditches and shook martinis for once-upon-a-time livestock buyers and Chevrolet dealers and their ironic wives who went to the hairdresser every week, good people who had also retired and come to the coast.

 

They called the inland flatlands they’d left “east of the mountains,” and recalled “back when” and said “enough for another night” as darkness descended out of the east. They were old and calm and it was time for bed.

 

It was my thought that “One of the Seas is Called Pacific” should be about tranquility that could result from giving up on ambition. But an editor told me such stories never sell. “It’s hard to dramatize what’s at stake.” So I gave it up.

 

In a Portland hospital, when Francis was dying of cancer, I visited again and was moved and persuaded by their dignity and humor as their time with each other slipped away. After Francis was gone, Annick Smith and I and her twin boys, Alex and Andrew, who were just into high school, visited Oscar. He promised an ocean trip and the next morning loaded us in his fishing boat. We shoved off in heavy fog. I don’t know if that voyage was a matter of refusing to give in to the rapaciousness of fading life, but it was a mistake.

 

We were enveloped in mist and couldn’t see over a dozen yards. After an hour of compass reading, we heard waves breaking on the rocky cliff-line north of the harbor. “The son of a bitch should lift,” Oscar muttered. The sea was calm and we had gas for hours, but damn it all.

 

Oscar had always been a paragon of confidence because he never took foolish chances, and believed in high-jinks combined with safety. Horseback and alone as a boy on isolate deserts, he’d learned that lesson early. Take unnecessary risks in that territory and you’ll eventually end up crippled or dead or anyway broke; it’s likely there will never come a time when you’ll get to live a life of your own choosing. But here he was old and those waves continuing breaking on rocks, unable to swim the length of a bathtub. Neither could I. Annick and her boys could swim like seals, but even they seemed concerned.

 

One more time, the ten thousand things let us get away with it. The sun cut through. A channel of light led us through the mists to the harbor. We would all live forever.

 

Over the next years, Oscar showed up in Missoula once a summer. On his way from Oregon, he’d stop for a visit in Grangeville, Idaho, with Francis’s son, Gary Reynolds, who worked for the Forest Service. Then Oscar would appear one night unannounced in the Eastgate Lounge where Jim Crumley and Jim Welch and so many others tended to gather. If I wasn’t there, someone would call me.

 

Oscar and I, we learned to enjoy each other. We’d drive up the Blackfoot River to Annick’s house, sit on the porch and sip bourbon. Then one afternoon he said “This is the last trip to Montana. I’ve got too old for the driving.”

 

“Desert rats,” Oscar would say of his friends in Brookings. “There’s a den of us.” He laughed about being too old for Alaska, where he could catch a grayling on a fly. “But we anyway got the top fishing in the world out in the Pacific.” Then he did make a trip to Alaska with an old pal, and they did catch grayling on fly.

 

Best was high on Oscar’s agenda. He loved hunting ducks and geese and their presence in the skies above the meadows in Warner Valley, where we lived when I was growing up, and he tried to save the eggs of Sand Hill Cranes in ditch bank nests from being crushed by mowing machines. But he refused to notice the discouraging news in Silent Spring. “It’ll cure,” he said of a semi-ruined world and that was all right with me at the time. Over eons all things cure. Meanwhile he liked to keep things ordered, useful, profitable, and thus enjoyable.

 

No matter their irresolvable trouble, it was a way of going at the world he’d learned from his father, who thought nature and the rest of us should be controlled.

 

What did they want, my great grandfather and my great grandmother and my grandparents and my father and my  mother and women I married and women I lived with and my sister and the men she married and my brother and the women he would marry? Seems we were all determined to rise in the world while fashioning lives of consequence. I’ve not improved much since. I grew up in feudalist enclaves, those ranches, distant from thoughts about the workings of economics, giving no mind to profit but otherwise agreeing that it was a fine life throughout my younger days.              

 

By 1949, as I drove off to college in Oscar’s black port-hole Buick,  everything our family seemed to want was before us – fertile fields, vast herds of cattle and hundreds of horses and the knowledge that we were respected by people we admired. With my brother and sister and cousins, as small boy, I hid high up in blossoming apple trees, safe in that valley where my family seemed to think it was all ours. But keeping track of what was invaluable proved endlessly tricky. We lost count.

 

Sunlight transforms us. It’s a main reason for getting out of bed and continuing. I was horseback by daybreak those summers on the ranch, herding work teams out of the willows and off island meadows in the Taylor Field. The huge horses breathed mist and their hooves thudded on the sod as I drove fifty or sixty to a willow-walled corral where a hay-camp boss waited with a sea-grass rope. Teams with baits of grain waited to be harnessed as we went to eat. The early light would come up forever. That was what I learned to believe in, ranch boy holiness in the hayfield.

 

Norman Maclean, in the opening sentence of A River Runs through It, wrote “In our family there was no clear line between religion and fly fishing.” He told me it was a truth he came to while writing and that it was the last sentence he wrote for his story. Admiring intelligence, fine fly casting, competency, and calmness, Norman wrote that “Grace comes by art and art does not come easy.” What did each of us in my family, on the sage flats and in the flood irrigated barley and alfalfa fields, in our various never discussed ways, think of as grace or art?

 

One day in my childhood, Oscar tapped a pack of Lucky Strikes (“Lucky Strike Green Has Gone to War”), and shook out a smoke for each of the men he’d given the job of falling a rotten Lombardy poplar from the row in front of the house he’d built for us in the old orchard in Warner Valley. He crouched to my level, and as he grinned I studied his eyes for signs. What did I read there? The same message I found sixty years later. “Take heart.”

 

It always works, recalling his resilience while trying to imagine what he took to be losses – no more catching horses at the River Ranch while getting ready to lead his young sisters to grade school out by Schoolhouse Lake, and no more poker in the Elk’s Club in Klamath Falls, and no more shaking off a ten-below day spent moving cows on the Klamath Marsh with shots of bourbon, and no more cavorting with rich pals in the Palace Hotel on Market Street in San Francisco where one night when I was sixteen he accompanied me to a jazz club across the street where they’d serve me gin fizzes with no questions asked. I was leading him to hear a saxophone man I’d discovered, the redoubtable Wingy Manone. After the first set, Oscar ordered drinks for the house, doubles for Wingy and the side men in his trio. “Sir,” Wingy said, smiling big. “What would you like?”

 

“About twenty minutes of silence.” I was mortified but Wingy was amused. “Wondered about you,” he said to Oscar. “Every time you come up with a double, you get some silence. But not twenty minutes. They’d can my ass.”

 

“Can’t have that.” Oscar grinned at me, like this was our secret. I’m reminded of that moment by recalling the last time I saw him, eighty-nine and enduring the wait for death in a nursing home but still joking.

 

I didn’t credit his condition as I should have. Oscar always survived and I thought he would go a few more years. A nurse let me into a little room where he was emaciated but dressed in gabardine slacks and a wool shirt and asleep in a wheel chair. When I spoke, he woke, startled. “Bill’s coming.”

 

He studied me a moment. “Who the hell did I think you were?” We laughed – wish I could remember what we said – and then it was time to leave. “I’ll be back on the streets,” he said.

 

Days later, Oscar died in that nursing home. It’s easy to think, though I have excuses, that I could have hung around and helped him see it through. But maybe he didn’t need any help. There must be a point where the dying are in charge.

 

On my visits to the coast, I watched him rock in his chair and gaze over the ocean, and thought I might write a story in which characters age and lose loved ones and find a way to view death with tranquility. But that notion was walked by ghosts. This is meant to be a story about people making it easy for one another – a tall order in my family. That wasn’t the way we did things.

 

 

 

The End